An Introduction to Lazio Wines – The Roma Wine Festival May 9th and 10th
In Vino veritas

by Samatha Collins
june 2009

This weekend the streets of Rome were flowing with visitors in various stages of sampling the wines on offer at this year’s 2009 Roma Wine Festival and Awards. Held at Gambero Rosso’s Città del Gusto, 117 wine producers from across Italy came to exhibit their wares to a thirsty crowd. Speaking as someone who does not know one end of their DOCG from their Vdt, this opportunity for a well rounded education was not to be taken lightly, even if it included having to sample almost all the wines on offer. On both floors. Well it would have been almost rude not to when they had gone to all that trouble...
I am not so much of a wine buffoon that I have not encountered the odd Chianti or Montepulciano on my travels but when I think of Italy, Lazio is not really top of my list of wine producing regions. One of the aims of the event is not only to acknowledge producers across Italy but also to highlight those of the region, “a testimony to the excellence of our products and our agricultural entrepreneurs” commented Massimo Pallotini, Commissario of the Agricultural Agency of Lazio.
Speaking on behalf of Casale del Giglio who won the award for ‘Wine Entrepreneur of Lazio’, sommelier Enrico Concutelli explained: “Around 80% of the wines produced here are white, with the best known being Frascati and Est Est Est. But people do not know that we also produce some very good reds such as the Cesanese del Piglio. In the 1930s, Lazio suffered from land that was very boggy and infested with malaria from the mosquitoes but Mussolini’s ‘bonification’ programme to make the land usable meant workers from the north also brought with them local grapes such as Merlot or Cabernet. Now we have a thriving wine industry and the Association of Wine Producers in Lazio (www.levignedellazio.it/) is trying hard to get people to know more about our wines”
Luca Di Michele, Azienda Agricola Vitivinicola Terra del Veio is also keen to let more be known about Lazio wines: “For example, we produce six wines here including red, white and rose. People are only just starting to realise the variety on offer in this region. Our vineyard is placed on an Etruscan tomb so it’s also interesting to visit for its history, although of course when we dig to plant new vines, the area has to be thoroughly excavated first which can cause problems. Initiatives like the ‘Aperte Cantine’ weekends help raise the profile of our wines to tourists as they can come and see what happens in a cantina, how we produce it and of course, enjoy the tasting sessions”.
Cantine Aperte Organisation was formed following pressure from tourists. Their next event is on 30th and 31st May when 22 Lazio wineries will open up to the public, with the motto “See What You Drink”.

Well after working hard sampling wines for the last two hours this is becoming something of a challenge, so perhaps that is enough for one festival.
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Italian Wine Classifications

- Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)
This classification denotes the highest quality recognition for Italian wines and only a few achieve this status.

- Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
Wines that fall under this category must be made in specified, government defined zones, and these regulations are intended to preserve the wine's character related to Italy's individual regions.

- Indicazione di Geografica Tipica (IGT)
These table wines are often grown in a specific geographical growing regions but without the strict controls of DOC wines. Tend to be of a lesser quality but there are exceptions as some of the best wine’s of Italy can come under IGT classification to avoid the stringent conditions of the DOC and DOCG classifications.

- Vino Da Tavola (VdT)
This signifies wines that have been produced having met no other criteria than that they were produced somewhere in Italy.
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Idiots Guide to Italian Wine Classifications

DOCG
the best of the best. To be sipped seriously and served on very special occasions such as marriage proposals, or sampled freely and without discretion at wine exhibitions.

DOC
wine that has passed a strict set of tests to ensure its provenance. Probably one to bring on a first date ensuring date in question can see the label at all times.

IGT
General wines that are suitable for the table. Some DOC wines fall under this to avoid the paperwork for DOC status, so worth tasting them all to check. Works well also if drunk as a second bottle.

VdT
A table wine that is vague about its origins. Fine in an emergency but most suitable for unwanted house guests.
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Experts Wine Recommendation:

- A Mater Matuta served with oven roasted lamb seasoned with a little garlic, rosemary, and olive oil
Enrico Concutelli, Casale del Giglio
- A Donna Luce from the Poggio Le Volpi zone served with shellfish.
Luca Di Michele, Azienda Agricola Vitivinicola
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Cantine Aperte Initiative
More information can be found on www.movimentoturismovino.it
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Award Winners from Lazio

- RWF Award
Imprenditore del Vino del Lazio for entrepreneurial innovation and success:
Antonio Santarelli di Casale del Giglio

- RWF Award
La Viticoltura sostenibile for responsible and sustainable production:
Sergio Mottura

- RWF Label Award
Poggio alla Meta for their label ‘Ilgiovaneilvecchio’