Rioni of Rome
A Look Around Testaccio

by Samantha Collins

The vibrant colours of fresh fruit and vegetables overflowing from their crates; the smells of fresh fish and flower stalls; people shouting to be heard above the bustle of the day’s trade – Testaccio market on a typical weekday morning. This ancient quarter of Rome has been the centre of intense commercial activity since the first century BC and still remains true to its trading roots. This, in spite of its recent rise in the ‘trendy areas of Rome’ stakes.
An area now surrounded with bars, pizzerias and nightclubs, it attracts a young student crowd in the evening, yet has so far managed to keep an air of authenticity and character that other more developed parts of Rome have started to lose.

Monte Testaccio
Testaccio was named after discarded ‘testae’, the broken pieces of the vases, or ‘amphorae’ used to transport olive oil imported from Spain and Africa to Rome in the period 140bc to around 250ad. This was a time that preceded the popularity of recycling and quirky plant pots, so once the oil had arrived safely, the pots were discarded into a pile. Eventually it grew so high that it formed Testaccio hill, an entirely artificial construction which stands at around 120 feet. Calculations suggest that by the 3rd century more than 50 million ‘testae’ had been thrown away onto the hill, equivalent to consumption at that time of 22 litres of olive oil per person, per year.
Underneath the wilderness of Monte Testaccio, behind the facades of the nightclubs, trattorias and workshops that are built into its side, there are many ancient cellars, or ‘cantine’. These were excavated into the hill during the 6th century when it was discovered that the constantly cool temperature of between 7-10 degrees proved to be the perfect place to store wine. This was such an important finding that the Comune of the time even ruled that they were bound for “pro conservatione vini et non aliud finem” (the storage of wine only) with the exception of number 16 via di Monte Testaccio which it was decreed could be used to store ‘salumi’ – salami and other types of cured meats.
Sadly the hill is generally closed to the public but it is possible to try to book a private tour by telephoning 060608.

Protestant Cemetery and Pyramid

Step behind the Aurelian Wall, and the frantic intensity of many buses, trams and cars passing through busy Piazzale Ostiense all but disappears. The long term residents of this peaceful haven started to arrive in 1738, mainly of English and German nationality. Several illustrious names can be found amongst the numerous headstones and family vaults watched over by a colony of cats and the towering trees, or ‘alberi pizzuti’.

Shelley who wrote that the cemetery might “make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place” . He got his wish and now keeps company with fellow poet Keats, Antonio Gramsci, a founding father of European Communism, the son of Goethe and St Trinians actress, Belinda Lee. A fascinating combination if only they could be gathered around the same dinner table.

Dominating the cemetery is the incongruous Pyramid of Caius Cestius, a wealthy Roman magistrate. Built between 18-12 BC, it stands at 89 feet high – a symbol of the popular style which swept Rome following the conquest of Egypt. Originally part of the Aurelian Wall, it now stands slightly at odds with its surroundings which have long since changed to include a bus terminal, market stalls and a Metro Station, its marble facade badly marked with the passing pollution.
The cemetery is free to enter, and a strangely wonderful place to go and sit with a book and enjoy the peace. Sadly many of the graves are deteriorating with the passage of time but the cemetery has now been added to the World Monument’s Fund list of Endangered Sites to help ensure its preservation.

Rome War Cemetery

Just behind the Protestant Cemetery, you can find the Rome War Cemetery. Following the German withdrawal of Rome in June 1944, and the Italian switch of allegiance, the cemetery became home to occupying allied troops, but also some of those who died as prisoners of war are buried here. There is also a piece of Hadrian’s Wall displayed by the people of Carlisle who wanted to commemorate the soldiers from Cumbria who died during WW2.

Future Plans
As its popularity increases, it seems inevitable that Testaccio may lose some of its authentic feel. Already work has started on a new market, and surely the relentless march of new building work and development will follow a few steps behind. An area of historical and cultural importance, it is even rumoured to be the place where Italian football began when the first team started to kick a ball around the piazza. Let’s hope that Testaccio can retain its charm in the face of progress.

To get to Testaccio:
take the Metro B Line to Pyramide, or alternatively the 716 or 30 bus from Teatro Marcello. Alternatively it is about a ten minute walk from Circo Massimo.